A roaring fire and cosy cellar door is an enticing part of this elegant dining experience. Check the menu, then sample and choose Maxwell wines, so beautifully expressive of the area, to match your luncheon fancy.

A step away, the partially open kitchen might catch some attention, but rolling vineyard country views will rival chef Fabian’s flourishes of wine-friendly food. An amuse bouche might be deeply flavoured shellfish and mushroom soup in little jars that release a tantalising plume of smoke when lids are lifted. It’s a touch of theatre served by a well-versed team who explain all elements as each plate is delivered.

The carpaccio is a mod square-edged presentation of venison so delicate it lends a mere meaty hint to forks loaded with crisp apple cubes, tarragon and roasted macadamia dust.

Below crispy skin, Murray cod is a delicate freshwater surprise on lush Jerusalem artichoke with crunchy kale and a restrained dash of broth.

One dessert, like a bowl of cereal, as is the trend, has nutty crunch, apple jelly cubes, salty caramel and crazy good brown butter ice cream.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.