Maxwell Wine’s dining offerings have made a great leap forward with the completion of a new high-end restaurant space within the wider cellar door area at the winery.

Chef Fabian Lehmann and his pastry sidekick Jason Brown have embraced the opportunity and are cooking up a Michelin-style storm that comes in four-and-six-course degustations that start with three extra savoury snacks and finish with a petit fours addition as well.

The cooking is most accomplished in its elite, modern European approach – plating design included. You may get a spherified gin and tonic oyster at the finicky end of the spectrum, but a potato crisp nest with roe, and a churro with mild chilli mole dip are more classic – and that’s just the snacks.

Salmon with bubbles of yuzu juice in a split nasturtium sauce is stunning beyond comprehension, highlighting kitchen smarts as well as skills.

Beef cheek with wide ribbons of celeriac and hazelnut cream has a rich sauce poured at the table – you might even be offered shaves of black truffle in season for a small extra cost. It’s worth every bit of the treat when you dine at this level.

Dessert is cleverly included in the menu and meets the same heights of delight, all of which come to the table in a highly polished and seamless flow that can include sommelier chosen matches from Maxwell-made wines in glass and bottle offers, including cellared choices, plus a small selection of special French pours.

Superb from start to finish.