Take the curved staircase down into the elegant underbelly of Adelaide’s Mayfair Hotel, where restored servery trolleys and soothing jazz tones will have you feeling a world away from busy King William Street.

Cushioned bench seating and soft lighting help to warm the atmosphere even on quieter weeknights, while attentive waiters ensure it’s not long between drinks.

Head chef Bethany Finn’s menu is inspired by French and other hotel classics. To start, abalone served in its magnificent shell looks the part, the flesh firm, sliced and layered over a smooth cauliflower beurre blanc. Steak tartare is minced rather than diced, surrounded by wafer chips for scooping.

Mains are more gratifying. Lobster risotto is cooked beautifully and boasts a well-rounded sweetness from whiskey and aromatic saffron. Beef wellington steals the show, the meat invitingly crimson and tender, duxelles moist and pastry just crisp enough. It sits on a raft of mashed potato suspended in a pool of impossibly savoury jus you’ll want to finish with a spoon.

Holler for the desserts trolley if only to admire the puff pastry swans and scorched meringue “beehives”. Tiramisu offers a nice coffee hit, while sweeter tooths will enjoy the banana caramel tart, complete with a whiskey-filled pipette to add to taste.

For a more casual bite, new bistro The Den across the landing is grabbing attention for its steak sandwich.