Like an up-market resort in Phuket, the fit-out is chic yet welcoming. It is split into two dining spaces: one with high tables and a bar shaking up signature and classic cocktails and pouring food-friendly wines to thirsty diners; the other, buzzing with the hubbub of an open kitchen under a retractable roof perfect for spring lunches.

Staff well-drilled on every element of each dish passionately recommend favourites from ex-Longrain chef Arte Assavakavinvong’s menu of shareable small and large plates and curries. His version of ma hor pork is a standout – the sweet, sticky, chewy, salty, spicy mix of caramelised pork and prawn wrapped in pickled pumpkin; while prawn betel leaves explode with both flavour and juices in a sour, spicy mouthful.

The chilli tolerance of diners will be tested by pork belly capped with enviable crispy crackling, fired up by an intensely spicy green nahm jim. Or keep things sweet with lightly battered chunks of deep-fried eggplant in a sticky black vinegar dressing. Just be sure to finish this sophisticated, fun fusion experience with a signature elevated Asian dessert.

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