Descend into the new Ash Street Mercado and be swept into a dining den for those with a taste for the delicacies of the Mediterranean.

Former Nomad head chef Nathan Sasi and the crew behind China Doll and China Lane have joined forces to add to the establishments bringing smart-casual to the CBD.

Mercado delivers a neat balance of simple, well-executed food and great wine that won’t hurt the hip pocket.

Sasi’s sharing menu straddles the flavours of Spain, Morocco and the Middle East but is underwritten by an Australian sentiment.

House-made brioche sandwiches are jam-packed with wagyu tongue, gruyere cheese sauce and pickled green tomatoes. House-made mortadella arrives adorned in pickled guindilla peppers.

Finish with Pedro Ximenez bread pudding and a velvet vanilla sauce.

Must eat: Chermoula crusted kingfish, broad beans, preserved lemon