It’s been a while since a restaurant opening has caused a stir in the Blue Mountains, but when Mediterranean-style Mesa Barrio opened with Rockpool expat Will Cowan-Lunn on the pans, sleepy Lawson woke up.

Ingredients are sustainable and sourced locally, which isn’t hard with producers First Farm Organics and Epicurean Harvest down the road. Share plates are generous and well-priced, and Cowan-Lunn’s is good-quality food that feels sophisticated and homey all at once.

Smokey croquettes and a whipped cod roe with fried crackers are must-order starters. Scallops, cooked in the half-shell, are bathed in harissa butter, which provides a kick, and are topped with sourdough crunch for texture. Individual lamb chops are served with a tangy salsa verde, the magical herby green sauce that goes with everything.

The relaxed industrial space is fun and communal. Hip hop tunes, the wonderful energy and generous hospitality make this a mountains venue through and through.

Must eat dish: whipped cod roe with fried crackers
Instagram: @mesabarrio