Midnight Starling’s dining room is slick, with large street-facing windows bouncing light off the polished timber floors, mirrors and maps of French wine regions. Choose from either a three- or six-course set menu, with matched wines available.

For a modest fee on top of the set-menu price, the duck a l’orange comes into play in the main course. The generous serving sees crisp-skinned duck breast with blushing pink flesh and braised leg propped up by turnips and a flavour-packed, orange-spiked sauce. You may order pomme gratin dauphinoise (a garlic-butter layered potato dish baked in the oven), which completes the oh-so-French flavours.

Friendly staff will supply more baguette to wipe the plate clean and recommend wine to match your selection from a list rounded out by local, French and choice Italian drops.

Maintaining the indulgent theme is a ridiculously smooth creme caramel with rhubarb puree and crushed pistachio, showing off the precision Rogers gained in esteemed Parisian kitchens. Come for the duck, stay for the wine and return to see what Rogers does next.

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