My eyes are watering. It could be Coogee’s seductive sea breeze. It could be the spectacular sea views beyond the arched windows, or perhaps the palatial fit-out. Or it could be the menu prices.

Some are already hailing Mimi’s as ‘best new restaurant of 2020’ and with chef Jordan Toft on the pans at this newcomer in Coogee Pavilion (he also heads sibling Bert’s), it’s fine indeed, but prices are, well, eye-watering. John Dory, for instance, is a whopping $72. And while it’s filleted at the table and served with a lovely sake butter, too long over high heat has left the skin a little acrid. At this price it should be spectacular.

Nevertheless, Mimi’s is a grand addition to Sydney’s dining scene.

It feels special and highlights the Art Deco wonders of the building. Beyond the open kitchen, a sea of nicely spaced white-clothed tables form a backdrop for the hum of diners enjoying the old-school silver service.

Toft is a mighty fine cook and has an admirable ethic – to source the best produce and prepare it with deceptively simple technique. And at a time when dining leans casual, it’s nice to find a touch of opulence, and the caviar trolley service is just that. Likewise the live specials – green-lip abalone, say, or sea urchin with kefir butter and milk bread.

On the main menu, barbecued black-lip abalone and pancetta come skewered on a bay leaf twig. Espelette chilli and finger lime lend zing to snapper tartare, while peach mustard is a piquant foil for grilled pork collar. A lovely spin on vanilla custard slice is a fine finish.

Service swings between spot-on and absent (twice we waited for cutlery while our dish stared at us), and yet the theatre of silver service is thrilling. The drinks list is a belter and holds great value if you seek it out. Sure, Mimi’s is pricey and, as with most new places, not without its hiccups, but it has all the makings of a favourite. It may well be the best in 2020 yet, but come on, kids, it’s only February.