It’s a tad frustrating when you see a perfectly good opportunity turn into the disappointment of ‘if only’. New restaurant and bar Misfits promises much. If they’d just nailed some of the little things, they’d be rocking Redfern.

If only the empanada pastry was shorter and softer because the filling was great. If only our chips were warm and the steak cooked medium-rare (rather than medium-well), because the anchovy butter and caramelisation on the steak were spot-on. If only the pea puree with a nicely cooked crisp-skin fillet of snapper wasn’t the texture of toothpaste. If only we were served by proficient industry pro Ben Moechtar all night, rather than disinterested waitstaff that are greener than a Dublin pub crowd on St Patrick’s Day. Let’s hope he sticks around to get them as invested in the art of hospitality as he is.

But there is a lot to like about Misfits too. Owned by the W. Short Hotel Group (The Glenmore, The Australian Hotel), it has a smart fit-out and the atmosphere is certainly intoxicating. A palette of pastels join strong greys and browns across five areas (bar, restaurant, lounge, secret bar and outdoor garden) that bestow an eclectic, retro ’60s meets ’70s vibe. It’s a great space, though mounted TVs are never a good look.

Executive chef James Privett’s menu hits some highs, but suffers from poor execution. Pressed chicken terrine benefits from the twang of a capsicum relish. Crumbed and fried tofu shines with asparagus, turnips and a roast potato broth. Snapper and carrots work well, but I’d trade in the pea puree for more beurre blanc. And a burnt honey cream with biscotti and mandarins dipped in Grand Marnier is pleasing.

Perhaps they should offer food without table service, as it’s a damn decent bar, but that doesn’t necessarily make for a decent restaurant.