When I first learned the news about a Viking-themed restaurant inspired by Thor, the god of thunder in Norse mythology, it was difficult to suppress a loud laugh. But, it turns out, Mjølner is not an ungodly idea after all.

The name refers to Thor’s mighty hammer – a replica sits on the bar – and the room is packed like a shindig on Asgard. Twee or not, it’s soon clear they’re doing something right.

The interior consists of fur-lined banquettes, brick walls, and archway windows housing props seemingly stolen from the History Channel.

Everyone is greeted with a complimentary “skal” (honey, mead, vermouth), served in a miniature glass horn. The service is lively, enthusiastic, and they even unravel a knife bag full of blades for diners to choose from.

Norway native Sven Almenning and his cohorts behind Eau De Vie and The Roosevelt have enlisted the services of chef Tom Gripton (ex-Bentley) to deliver what they call “Viking-luxe” cuisine.

That translates as dishes like ocean trout gravlax with pickled cucumber and a punchy horseradish cream. The accompanying linseed crisps are too brittle for the cured fish, but it’s a promising start. Better is a pig’s head terrine, with its wobbling texture and crunchy pistachios.

Meanwhile, line-caught flathead is cooked superbly, with pearlescent flesh peeling from the spine at the touch of a fork. Then braised beef short rib is paired with toothsome fried kale.

Gripton will also be offering various rotisserie-cooked animals every night of the week; hence the machetes.

To finish, rice pudding with rhubarb sorbet is a confronting mix of sweet and sour. Still, after almost countless restaurant visits, Mjølner is the most fun I’ve had dining out this year. This hammer has hit the nail on the head.