It’s a bit dull when a restaurant goes through the motions; when nothing is terrible, but no one’s heart is in it either.

I’d sum up Mode Kitchen & Bar in two words: it’s fine. It’s not a bad place – I’ve been to plenty of those – but in a bid to be safe, it’s painfully underwhelming. Even the name is boring. You’ve probably already forgotten it.

It feels like the staff don’t know their various roles. Everything is a bit, “Um, let me check.” The chef is in civilians, wandering around, drinking coffee, chatting to waitstaff. The manager doesn’t know what the whole fish of the day is. There’s more, but you get the picture.

But the fit-out is quite impressive. Housed in the former shell of Pei Modern, in the Four Seasons Hotel, I like the new glass facade that separates it from the hotel foyer. The centrally located bar with stone slab top is a huge drawcard. An array of dining areas are all very luxe – they’ve clearly spent a fortune – it’s all brown leather and aqua velvet furniture, touches of brass and bronze, and hanging pendant lighting.

Chef Francesco Mannelli’s loosened-tie bistro menu fills the brief, and for the most part is well executed. The interplay of sweet and sour red onions and macadamias on raw kingfish is pleasant enough. Slices of Mt Cook king salmon are nicely cured but the salad of endive, green mango and rocket has me screwing up my face like a child biting into a lemon for the first time. A slow-cooked lamb shoulder is much better. Accompanied by Japanese eggplant and crisp saltbush leaves, it’s underpinned by a solid jus.

When I say Mode is fine, I reckon you could come here and dine and drink reasonably well. But it just feels like somewhere to eat – not somewhere memorable to eat.