At a time when sushi trains are dumbing down Japanese food in Australia, the driving principle behind Moga is subarashii, which means glorious, splendid, excellent; and this golden subarashii thread is woven throughout Moga’s menu.

Oysters three ways are Coffin Bay beauties decorated with yuzu, plum and ponzu jellies. Perfect with a smooth, dry Ippongi Denshin Ine sake from the drinks list which ticks off on all manner of Japan’s iconic beverages. Twirls of crisp teriyaki pork belly are skewered with shichimi pepper and celery while the classic unagi nigiri – succulent freshwater eel on sweet rice – is meaty and dusted with sesame.

Japanese may not be a cuisine renowned for its desserts, but the white sesame mousse is light, with a sprinkling of grilled almonds and scoops of earthy green tea ice cream.

Reminiscent of a Japanese inn (ryokan), the covered outdoor dining area has dark timber tables, paper lanterns and pretty teapots holding chopsticks. While there is a sushi train at Moga – try the Kamo River roll with marinated duck, red pickle and cucumber – it’s in a separate, timber panelled room and, not surprisingly, is also a cut well above the ordinary.

Must-eat dish: Moga roll (salmon, scallops, teriyaki, shallots)
Instagram: @mogapaddington