Paul Carmichael can certainly cook. In fact, we’ve not seen many like him Down Under. A humble chef with a deft touch and an innate understanding of the cuisine of his homeland Barbados, coupled with a willingness to champion best in class Australian produce, his food is something everyone should get to experience, at least once.

Housed in The Star, Momofuku Seiōbo is the brainchild of superstar chef David Chang, and the rock ’n’ roll swagger of his venues takes a slightly more chilled detour here under the watchful guidance of Carmichael and restaurant manager Kylie Javiar-Ashton. To make the most of the experience, either sit at the bar and snack and quaff, or get a spot at the kitchen counter to watch the team ply their trade as you work through the 10-course feast.

The meal might start with plantain, garlic and puffs of chicharrones. Then ‘cou cou’, which sees corn and okra combine with the luxury of sterling caviar. Shaved coconut hides a sweet, nutty lobe of sea urchin with highlights of allspice. Then a creamy prawn ceviche gets a twang from West Indies lime, marron arrives in a lather of sofrito sauce and slow-cooked wagyu brisket partners pasteles (similar to a tamale), olive and trout roe. Finish with a trio of cakes – rum cake, cassava pone and Guinness cake for good measure. Light, full of sunshine, rich and heartwarming – Momofuku Seiōbo is a meal like few others.