The unassuming 20-seater is hidden behind a green glass door, plastered with gig posters and graffiti. Inside you’ll find a buzzing kitchen, bright neon posters and an upbeat playlist pulling it all together.

The concise yet considered menu is packed with nostalgic faves and street food fare that’s made to share. A tasty scallop sando sees the golden crumbed orb drenched in thousand island sauce with iceberg lettuce, jammed between two white bread discs. The more generous Rangers Valley Angus is excellent value, landing on the table grill-branded, dripping in black garlic butter and decorated with chewy enoki mushrooms. 

Sweets include a new take on a classic dessert: lemon meringue pie. Here, it’s served in a sundae bowl with smoked vanilla, coconut yoghurt mousse and mango curd, topped with toasted meringue.

Smith St’s best kept secret is out: Mono-XO is a great value, quiet achiever that’s making a lot of delicious things behind closed doors.  

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.