It sparked A grass fire that has run rampant through Canberra’s dining landscape ever since. Yep, Sean McConnell’s vision for a restaurant inside the artsy Hotel Hotel (these days the Ovolo Nishi) manifested as some kind of magnificent Monster. With bar, lounge and dining (plus private room) sprawled over the hotel’s ground floor, sheembodied all the energy of the new wave of Australian dining; one that focuses on quality ingredients, modern cookery leaning on Japanese and Middle Eastern techniques, quality plonk and a casual yet stylish sensibility.

Nevertheless, McConnell has left the building for his first solo venture, Rebel Rebel. Elevated to chief Monster tamer is head chef Dan Flatt (who’s worked with McConnell for the past four years), under the guidance of new culinary director Ian Curley. What is pleasing since the whip has been passed on is that Flatt’s food is just as satisfying.

Monster itself hasn’t changed much. The lounge/bar remains a warm respite for aperitifs, nightcaps and pre-movie mocktails, while the restaurant feels more open. Its mismatched furniture ranges from super sleek to awful, but the textured walls, panelled ceiling and stone floors give Monster its own identity.

And so, back to Flatt’s food. It’s clear the four years under McConnell’s wing have either rubbed off on him, or the pair clearly workshopped dish concepts (I’m voting for the latter), because there is a genuine synergy between the old and new.

Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and all meals in-between (surely I’m not the only one who has more than three meals a day?) Monster is, well, quite a beast. But Flatt’s generous portions, ability to balance complex flavours and willingness to push the boat out could happily sate the wildest of creatures.

Cubed cured kingfish partners squares of dashi jelly beneath light, aerated pork skin bubble sprinkled in Japanese furikake. It’s a textural triumph. Meanwhile, jamón and basil leaves decorate a tumble of heirloom tomatoes lathered in stracciatella and a hint of harrisa.

Delightfully toothsome wild rice provides a bed for lightly battered Sichuan pepper tofu topped with coriander and garlic shoots. Then a gorgeous, blackened flat-iron steak lands blushingly pink inside. Onion, black garlic and a puddle of chimichurri provide a clever vinegar focused ally to balance the rich flesh.

It might be all about shared plates, a modus operandi where some diners feel they miss out on their fair share, but even big eaters won’t be disappointed by the appropriately monstrous serves. If you have room, perhaps opt for the seasonal fruit sorbet followed by a nightcap, and a howl or two at the moon, in the bar.