Some come for the sculpture. Others don’t get past the cellar door and pizza oven. That’s a shame because Montalto’s restaurant is the hero of this renowned Red Hill estate. Seventeen years young, the big, rustic dining room – with bucolic vineyard views – is humming with creative energy and managed by a cracking front-of-house crew.

Tasting menus are good value here and best paired with top drops from Montalto winemaker Simon Black. Going a la carte, share a snack (bone marrow, parsley and anchovy is a winner) and a few ‘small plates’. We loved an eggy medley of Peninsula pine mushrooms, Jerusalem artichoke and chestnut.

Abundant seasonal produce, grown on the property, shines in so many dishes. From cime de rapa with rib eye and oyster cream to grilled cos with smoked freekeh and a poached tamarillo with liquorice ice cream.

Must Eat Dish:  Striped trumpeter, spigarello, dashi and mussels