Long-time peninsula player Montalto is a class offering. Whether the warm greeting and offer to take jackets at the door, the house sparkling water on tap and rosemary-flecked salt to sprinkle on bread dunked in excellent estate olive oil, the scene is quickly set for a long lunch that’s all about lingering over a view of the vine and sculpture covered hills.

Chef Gerard Phelan, a year into his tenure, has a fine eye for creating dishes that give that view a real run for its money. Case in point: a pretty-as-a-picture circle of wood ear mushrooms interposed with fine Jerusalem artichoke chips that’s a textural triumph of tastes. A generous slab of pork jowl that’s all pan-seared crisp outer and naughty fatty rich inner, cleverly comes with pickled rhubarb to cut through; though excellent duck teamed with vanilla-spiked parsnip is a great idea lost within a jammy, sticky sweet reduction served alongside.

The short list shows off the excellent estate wines, venturing further afield for a few well-chosen varietals from here and a couple of Burgundies from there.

Though cheeses might be served a little too fridge cold, the dessert game is strong. An exquisite burnt mandarin ice cream served with honeycomb and whipped goat’s curd is as balanced as a tightrope walker; a warm apple cake with chia anglaise a spiced late-winter delight.

A recent refresh of the room has also ushered in more relaxed approach to the menu, which is now a choose-your-own adventure rather than set-course approach. While she may have a new pair of shoes, what remains of this peninsula diner is all class.

Must-eat dish: Pork jowl
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