With its red upholstered seating and brass fittings you could be on the Boulevard St Germain rather than adjacent to the Exhibition Grounds in King St, but the attention to detail, quality of cooking, level of service and French-accented wine list are noteworthy.

This year the restaurant has changed it up, offering an a la carte menu of classics for dinner Tuesday to Thursday (with a choice of five options for entrees and mains for $85pp for two courses and $100 for three), or a five-course chef’s menu of some of these classics for $135. Lovers of French onion soup, the peerless double-baked souffle with crabmeat and gruyere, steak frites, bouillabaisse, or perhaps a lovely rum baba to finish, look no further. 

But on Friday and Saturday nights there’s just a six-course, $165 tasting menu that moves into new territory with dishes such as tartare of champagne lobster; rabbit loin wrapped in smoked pork cheek, as well as slow-roasted Black Angus fillet. This is a well-oiled machine that has refreshed its food offering while maintaining a floor team that stands out for its training, skill and enthusiasm.

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