Less classic but equally accomplished, slow-roasted duck with braised quince and parsnip gratin or maybe venison fillet with salt-baked beetroot and pickled red berries also demand attention.

Chef Shannon Kellam’s chocolat de passion was used as a challenge on MasterChef this year, and it’s a wondrous creation involving passionfruit curd, chocolate hazelnut praline mousse and strawberry sorbet and is the standout dessert.

The wine list offers a comprehensive array of the classics, the decor is elegant and the well-drilled professional staff continue to create a smooth-as-silk dining experience in a traditional setting with consistently beautifully cooked classic French cuisine at the heart of the operation.

Exceptional dish: Crab and gruyere souffle