After six years on ever-evolving Chapel Street, Morris Jones was at risk of being less hip and more hip replacement. But a smart nip-and-tuck and savvy menu about-face has ensured the restaurant-bar’s place in Windsor’s fashionable fray.

Award-winning designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley has given the 1887 former furniture and carpet store, which still bears the name of its original owner, Henry Morris Jones, a bold and beautiful refit, unveiled last month.

Gone is the woody clubhouse vibe in favour of a chic urban oasis with foliage wrapping the rafters, a show-pony marble-topped bar and 126 perches across several areas, including a back courtyard.

Order up for a mod take on Japanese-Californian fusion, with interesting versions of sashimi, sushi and dumplings (go the “burger” dumplings with thousand island sauce), as well as some well-crafted mains.

The pork-belly salad shouldn’t be missed, the gnarly nubs of pork sweet with a ginger caramel atop crisp, puffed rinds. Likewise the beef short rib, braised to yielding and served on a green moat of vegetal kelp caramel.

Japanese vibes extend to the drinks, such as the Nakatomi Old Fashioned mixed, smoked in the glass, the lid then theatrically removed at the table, and several easy-quaff Japanese draught beers.

Service? It’s neither intuitive nor particularly helpful. We’re told it’s a sharing-style menu but that’s where the guidance ends. An uncut hand roll comes to our table of five. Take a bite and pass to the left?

It’s a shame because the kitchen is more than holding up its end of the deal with engaging and innovative food.