Popular with everyone from chefs and restaurateurs to high-powered execs, its cosy heritage digs speak of traditional European elegance. Sit in the baroque-tiled main dining room, softened by slouchy drapes, or along the leather banquette in the mezzanine and 58 peruse chef Catherine Anders’ modern a la carte menu.

But first, vino. Mosconi boasts an eclectic list rooted in Italy but extending as far as Armenia, Hungary and Australia, with an enticing by-the-glass selection – though prices are high. A Slovenian pinot grigio pairs well with an entree of Brisbane Valley quail, succulent from being cooked on the bone, with puffs of gnoccho fritto and a sweet Jerusalem artichoke puree.

A perfectly balanced beef tartare is ready to be scooped up with gluten-free seed crackers made by a local artisan “just around the corner”, the amiable, efficient waitstaff reveal. Pasta dominates the main courses and a comforting bowl of the wide, ring-shaped calamarata dotted with nuggets of pork sausage and finely diced broccolini is just what warms the soul on a chilly night.

Finally, a fudgy chocolate brownie reinforces the accessibility factor of this suburban favourite. 

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