Cellar door restaurant Mt Lofty Ranges vineyard will have you hooked by the end of the appetisers, let alone any of the “proper” courses to come. Part of the appeal, of course, is the setting, perched above a misty valley with kangaroos lazily grazing between rows of vines.

Chef Jesse White’s menu talks perfectly to this place with dishes that are locally inspired and seasonal. An entree of smoky grilled leeks covered in Woodside goat’s cheddar with brussels sprouts is the Adelaide Hills on a plate. A beautifully seared piece of Najobe beef is served with two chard parcels, one containing more beef – this time slow-cooked and falling apart – and the other smashed baby potatoes, the whole thing drizzled in marrow sauce.

It’s a rich and nourishing dish, as is the Nomad chicken, cooked two ways and served with lentils and cabbage. The dessert highlight is a delicate citrus chiffon cake, bejewelled with pieces of lime and mandarin and an intense ruby red grapefruit cream.

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