American food, particularly burgers and smoked meats, have made quite a mark over the last few years, so much so that it’s now almost impossible to find a pub without some kind of Yankee mash-up on the menu.

The US obsession continues at Double Bay’s Mr G’s. Owned by Gallagher Hotels (behind some very good pubs), Mr G’s intention is to be a high-end American steakhouse, but it’s far more Irish pub than Rockpool Bar & Grill – except for the prices.

In the kitchen are Dave Little, who was once a private chef to George Lucas, and Ronny Ghantous, who has been with Gallagher Hotels for 14 years.

The style is a bit dated, with red leather booths, brass accents, bucket chairs, American paraphernalia on the walls and a dark wooden bar. Mr G’s is the sort of place Donald Trump might go for a well-done steak with ketchup. Wine is served in heavy glass goblets. At these nose-bleeding prices (steaks range from $38-$110), modern stemware would be appreciated.

Hawkesbury squid is nicely paired with fried green tomatoes and almonds. A short rack of hickory smoked lamb ribs served with a mound of slaw is tasty, but perhaps not worth $39.

The “12-hour salad – from farm to table in under 12 hours” sounds worthy, but why shout about food miles if you’re serving Patagonian toothfish from South America? Especially when we have our own sustainably caught toothfish (Glacier 51) in Australia.

The main problem with Mr G’s is value. A medium-rare 500g Cape Grim rib eye costs $85 – fine if beautifully cooked, but it’s charred too far giving a burnt, acrid experience. Mr G’s feels like a pub trying to be a high-end restaurant. And while there’s nothing wrong with the food on the whole, you might want to watch your wallet.