The reign of the Hemmes dynasty continues with Mr. Wong, an opulent Cantonese diner set within the lower floors of the Establishment building. No expense has been spared on the sprawling two-storey venue, which combines raw timber with mossy shades to re-create the bustling teahouses of Shanghai in the 1930s.

Michael Luo is keeping the tradition of great dim sum alive. Bamboo steamers rule the daytime, with each thatched lid hiding a trio of stuffed and bundled treasures. One-bite wonders include the fat lobster and scallop tucked in thin, translucent skins, caviar crowned pork and prawn shumai and the crunchy wagyu and truffle pastry puffs. The rest of the menu falls under the jurisdiction of executive chef Dan Hong, who has taken centuries-old dishes and thrust them into the modern age. Make your first point of attack the Chinese roasted duck, which is a Mr. Wong specialty. The burnished bird hides sweet woodsy flesh beneath its paper-thin skin. Follow it up with the blushing char siu pork bathed in a warm, honeyed glaze, and bouncy curds of salt and pepper tofu, buried beneath a rubble of crunchy garlic bits. Be sure to pull back and leave room for dessert. There’s fried ice cream in a sticky puddle of butterscotch sauce, made just as you remember it, or the silken mango pudding, topped with shaved lychee ice.