Yum cha is an institution worth getting behind thanks to the exquisite offering, though trolley-less, at Mr Wong. The consistent quality of dim sum, from pursed scallop and prawn shu mai to soup-filled pork xiao long bao and intricately folded baby spinach dumplings, makes this the one weekend brunch in Sydney worth waiving the avo and toast for.

A back-alley scamper leads to a heavy glass door and the glamorous entryway, where names are crossed off and punters are guided upstairs to the dimly lit dining room where the busy kitchen is on full display. Make it to your table then immediately go exploring. Scores of glistening roasted ducks hang in one window, a mural of a woman brightens a two-storey wall, the toilets made from repurposed vintage tram doors, and downstairs lofty shelves stock all matter of curiosities curated by designer Sibella Court.

There’s more to Mr Wong than dumplings and a knock-out space, though. The extensive menu spans honey-glazed Kurobuta char siu pork and that roasted duck you spotted earlier. Pippies are wok fried with XO sauce, there’s steamed egg custard with spanner crab, XO sauce and crispy fried bread, and it wouldn’t be Chinese in Australia without salt and pepper calamari, which Mr Wong knocks out of the park.

Service wavers as suited staff pace between two larger rooms, plus another vast space downstairs, though the kitchen manages the challenge admirably. Front of house is, however, charming when it gets to you. Skip dessert, unless there’s room for deep fried ice cream and butterscotch sauce, and head for the wine list. Order a bottle, stay a while, and consider another plate of the steamed barbecue pork buns.

Must eat dish: Chinese roasted duck
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