It’s loud, vibey and undeniably fun. There are the expected flourishes of all members of the Merivale portfolio and there’s no denying that this is what good casual dining should be.

The menu is a succinct but satisfying rap-sheet of some of chef Dan Hong’s greatest hits. The cult-classic cheeseburger spring rolls are a must, followed by the ponzu-dressed kingfish to keep things fresh.

A plate of “strange flavour” burrata (as it’s listed on the menu) is a whirl of different flavours and textures – creamy burrata, chilli oil, a silky sesame sauce – and the generous slab of pan-grilled bread mops it all up perfectly. Then there’s the fried chicken, spiked with aniseed from the holy basil sauce; and miso-glazed eggplant that stands up to some of the best out there.

These are dishes to share with a group, preferably with a cocktail or three in hand – which isn’t too hard to do once you glance at the drinks list.

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