They don’t call it lunch hour for nothing. It’s Friday, 12.43pm, and up the top-end of town where other Flinders Lane restaurants are start-of-year quiet, Pezzo is pumping.

Guy Grossi’s latest fast-casual industro-cool and funky addition to the family suite of restaurants (Florentino, Merchant, Ombra) is a hit, especially with the twentysomething office crew at lunch. But – and here’s a top tip – at 12.58pm everyone started to move and, at 1pm on the dot, there’s nil but me and a table of two.

It’s no wonder they’re a hit. Pezzo is named after a Roman-style ‘snack’ – the happy love child of a pizza and pita pocket – pronounced PET-so. The dough is fermented for 48 hours before being baked; a firm crunchy outer hides a bright chewy inside with a lightness that wards off the 2pm carb coma.

They come with a half-dozen Itali-ish fillings, from the original, with three terrifically tasty golf ball- sized meatballs swimming in a sweet sugo, through to porchetta that’s piled high with sauerkraut. The melanzane parmigiana takes its veg pledge seriously, though the pick of the bunch is the slow-roasted lamb shoulder, served with thin slices of rosemary-roasted potatoes and topped with a parsley and onion salad. It’s the best new take on lamb-in-bread you’ll see all year.

There’s also coffee and breakfast pezzo in the AM, and a changing line- up of wines, beers, and boozy Capi aperitivi in the PM until late at night.

It’s not just food a Grossi restaurant gets right. Friendly staff is plentiful, and though you order at the counter, they bring your meal to the table; mine took five minutes to arrive, but was delivered with a “sorry for the wait”.

And should you want to beat that noon-time crush, you can order online to pick up for lunch al desko. In our increasingly fast-casual dining world, Pezzo is a winner.