On the one hand, it’s just roast chicken. But on the other, it’s so much more.

Golden-skinned and tender, hearty and rustic, this confidently cooked half chook served under a garden of leaves comes with hunks of smoky bacon, crunchy crostini cubes and a few fat mushrooms. Sometimes the simple things really are the best.

Under the shadow of the iconic Robin Boyd-designed tower, Muse, Mitchelton Winery’s signature restaurant, nails its modern farmhouse brief within a Scandi-handsome dining room that boasts roaring open fire for winter and expansive vine-covered terrace come summer.

Executive chef Dan Hawkins walks the local producer talk, cooking up the best of the surrounding Goulburn Valley, whether elegantly smoked trout teamed with puckering wild blackberries and a dusting of grated walnuts, rare-seared venison with yellow and purple beets, or a knockout fennel seed-crumbed pork cutlet with terrific apple mustard. 

Mushroom and chestnut risotto is a textbook version of cool-night comfort, while to finish, a wobble-tastic buttermilk panna cotta is equally elegant. 

Familiar foods elevated and executed with class teamed with on-point service and value-forward estate wines, Muse is country style that’s all class.

Must Eat Dish: Roast chicken