Muse, nestled between the hills of the Hunter Valley, is riding high on the new wave of Australian dining, thanks to gun chef and co-owner Troy Rhoades-Brown’s understanding of regional produce.

There is a sense of sophistication meets country comfort, but the room is more dark and sultry New York at night. By day it boasts breathtaking views of the Hunter Region too.

Professional, considerate waiters, headed by Megan Rhoades-Brown, are as proud of each plate as the chefs.

Savoy cabbage is coated in brown butter. Figs decorate house-cured duck breast, while gelatinous wobbly pork jowl with slow-cooked carrots and cumquats is deeply satisfying.

The signature coconut dessert astounds.

Must eat: Muse coconut