From the inspired farm-to-fork menu and subtly attentive staff to the luxurious, welcoming space, it’s a virtuoso performance. Owner and chef Troy Rhoades-Brown takes the region’s best produce and elevates it to new heights.

Tucking into cauliflower chawanmushi with Little Hill Farm chicken, puffed sushi rice and crispy chicken skin is like coming home after being away for too long. Jerusalem artichoke tart with whipped Binnorie triple cream brie and Branxton pecans is practiced and thoughtful. By the third course, wood-fired and braised Paroo kangaroo with spiced quince, black garlic and buckwheat, it’s impossible to call up enough new superlatives.

There’s a palate-cleanser of Udder Farm vanilla yoghurt, Hungerford Hill granita and finger lime, and the piece de resistance is slow-cooked heirloom pumpkin (from Rhoades-Brown’s orchard) with anise myrtle and pumpkin oil ice cream, fig jam and whisky butterscotch sauce – Muse’s take on pumpkin pie. It’s at this point that even the most professional of writers runs out of words. The only possible comment: “Bravo!”

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