Why? Navi has one of the best-value degustations in town. Each of Hills’ five or eight refined courses are as mind-blowingly good, if not better, than the last, from that first sweet chew of macaron filled with Yarra Valley roe to melt-in-your-mouth lamb prosciutto and heady slow-cooked rabbit wrapped in brassica leaves and teamed with bitey pickled pine mushrooms. 

His lockdown project “elements of duck’’ is, for lack of a better term, a flavourgasm. Hills uses every part of the bird to create something profoundly delicious, be it cherry-lacquered duck hearts, a punchy XO sauce, parfait cigar or perfectly rendered duck breast with flavoursome flesh and skin that’s cellophane-fine with melty fat. It may be the best you’ll have.

The wine list heroes the best on our shores and abroad. Hills’ attempt to alleviate month-long waitlists is slightly helped by Navi Lounge, the new wine bar next door which accepts walk-ins and limited bookings.

Navi is not only great for the hip pocket but an anomaly in the worn and weathered hospo industry. Believe the hype. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.