With his latest menu at Nel., Michelin-starred chef (and UK country boy) Nelly Robinson puts a fine dining spin on classic counter meals, adding pomp and ceremony to a night at the pub. It’s another ambitious undertaking for the degustation-only restaurant, which serves a new and innovative set menu every 10 weeks. 

On this visit, the nostalgia starts with chicken Kiev, loaded with hot parsley butter that explodes in the mouth. Next up, potted salmon is pumped into the delicate furls of a brik pastry cigar. It’s held in place by an earthy artichoke purée, and adorned with a cottage garden of edible flowers and micro herbs. The British sense of humour is alive and well in the full English, a miniature big breakfast of house-made beans, blood sausage and soft quail’s egg. For pudding, a proper Victorian sponge takes the cake. It’s sandwiched with elderflower buttercream and strawberry liquid gel, presented from within a retro biscuit tin, the kind someone’s Nan would have kept on top of the fridge. All that’s missing is the English Breakfast tea, which you’re welcome to order yourself.

While beer may seem like the obvious pairing, Nel also offers a matched wine package, which includes drops from across Great Britain as well as allied nations. Priced at just $118 for an 8-course dinner (blimey!) this has to be one of the most affordable set menus in town. 

Must eat dish: Potted salmon