A degustation menu for under $100 a head is ludicrously good value, especially in a city where the same style of meal at another venue would result in a much heftier bill.

Even so at Nel, there’s no hint of skimping; you’ll find a sense of generosity in both service and dishes.

While British-born chef Nelly Robinson trained in the UK, he’s spent enough time on our shores to adapt his style to suit local tastes.

He takes a trip down memory lane with many of his courses, but with the honed precision of each dish, the overall effect is much lighter than you might expect of traditional fare from that part of the globe.

Robinson aims to tell a story with his food, so while one of the early courses is a tribute to his grandfather, a dessert may be designed to evoke childhood memories, and each dish contains surprises.

Must eat: Eccles cakes with lemon curd