NNQ’s vast, affordable menu continues to ensure it attracts a crowd – and being housed in a sandstone-fronted former bank, with high ceilings, grand foyer space and many adjacent rooms, provides the space to fit big numbers (a request to dine within 90 minutes ensures tables keep turning over).

Fortunately, it doesn’t take long for the arrival of moreish Ha Noi spring rolls, filled with chicken, black fungus and water chestnuts, and cold rolls that you can assemble at your table. The bowls of pho and other noodle soups are enormous, while mains run from red barbecued chicken with broken rice or beef in betel leaf with vermicelli salad, to the extravagance of lobster tails with fried egg noodles.

Finish with textural desserts of black sticky rice with fruit sorbets, accompanied by Vietnamese coffee. All this is overseen by humble chef and co-owner Huong Ngo, whose daughter Jennifer Luong has expanded the business to include a more modstyle menu at Little NNQ and 1/3 By NNQ in the city, and NNQ Express takeaway at Henley Beach and Cheltenham.

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.