Nikkei, the new occupant of the site once home to Bodega, references the seafood-focused fusion of Japanese technique and Peruvian produce born of Japanese immigration to Peru in the late 19th century. Ceviche anyone?

Here the clever crew behind Tokyo Bird, Osaka Trading Co and Bancho delivers a vibrant take on what one might expect along Peru’s coastline.

The restaurant has two clearly defined spaces: a bar to crack on with cocktails and a dining room with an open kitchen and a gorgeous timber communal table sliced from a single tree that runs down its centre.

The wine list by group sommelier Phil McElroy is well conceived, focusing on global, coastal wines such as the Hearts of Oak biodynamic chenin blanc from Margaret River – perfectly suited to take you through the whole meal.

Chef Lucas Cerullo David puts a colourful spin on Nikkei cuisine that’s aesthetically pleasing and beautifully balanced. A ceviche of cubed swordfish cured in Peru’s tiger milk, a zingy lime-based marinade, is tumbled with avocado, mango and onion and topped with sweet potato crisps.

Capsicum salsa, wasabi and lime add spark to sweet Hokkaido scallops, while papas rellenas, or croquettes, are filled with chicken, corn and olives. They’re nice on their own, but even better after a quick dip in the accompanying curry sauce.

Just-cooked southern calamari becomes the hangover breakfast of your dreams with a purée of roast banana and a fried egg, while yuzu chimichurri adds a pleasing zing to roast Japanese pumpkin and eggplant.

It’s all rather lovely, but the crunch of sweet potato picarones (Latin doughnuts) with roast sesame butter and quinoa ice-cream are a real revelation.

Nikkei may be something new for Sydney, but thanks to our natural openness to global cuisine, it feels right at home here.