Arriving through elevator doors into this glitzy high-rise restaurant at the top of The Darling, guests can immediately sense this is not your average hotel or casino restaurant.

While the glimpses of ocean through double-storey windows require a lunchtime booking to enjoy, it’s the exorbitant and extragant open kitchen that pulls focus at night — as beautiful as the food it turns out.

Though young gun chef Kelvin Andrews has moved on from the restaurant, his commitment to making sensational Australian produce the hero, remains a legacy that lives on through dishes such as a marron and crustacean risotto, the silky rice mix elegant and generous with seafood, and the signature rock lobster bolognese.

Meanwhile, mains may include lamb backstrap served blushing with Middle Eastern notes from smoked eggplant, live lobster at almost $400 or some of the best steak in the country designed to share with their caloric mashed potato using half butter and half cream.

Finding a wine pairing requires little effort courtesy of an incredible two-storey wine cellar featuring 3,500 bottles carefully sourced from across Australia and the world.

But let the highly professional and personable staff guide beverage choices, as well as that of dessert. There’s the decadent and visually stunning chocolate bar presented like a bar of gold bullion or for something completely over the top, smoked white chocolate with Oscietra caviar costing a mere $44.

Slick, modern and fresh, this is a restaurant for those with deep pockets and a love of the finer things.

Exceptional dish: Marron and crustacean risotto, gold chocolate bar