Ten years after Robert De Niro helped to officially open it, breaking open a cask of sake, Nobu Melbourne is travelling well.

This southern outpost of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa’s culinary empire has lost some of its high gloss glamour (the riverfront dining room needs a refurb), but the service is as personable as ever while the food keeps evolving in subtle ways.

Bring on the lunchtime bento boxes, a great entry level way to experience this otherwise pricey place.

Backed with a formidable drinks list, brimming with cocktails and sake, Nobu still showcases all things great and raw. The sushi and sashimi rocks. Especially the Hiramasa yellowtail with jalapeno.

We also love the pretty-as-a-picture soft shell crab nori tacos but should you need to choose between Nobu’s umami sea bass or the signature black cod miso, go the bass.

Its thrillingly delicious, a testament to Matsuhisa’s restless exploration of flavours, textures and traditions.

Must-eat dish: Umami sea bass
Instagram: @nobuworldwide