Staying at the top of the global restaurant scene is no easy feat. When the hugely influential Noma (four times world number one) closed last year, it was hard to imagine how it could reinvent or renew itself, let alone surpass the original. In the 15 years since chef René Redzepi pioneered a new style of cooking – incorporating little-known or often never-before-used produce from the Nordic forests and seashore to inspire a universal movement towards a truly local, native-ingredient focus – Noma has also taken up temporary residencies in Tokyo, Sydney and, last year, the Mexican resort town of Tulum. Now it is back in a new, largely purpose-built Copenhagen location.

The first thing to say is that Noma2 has a pretty radical menu structure. For the first season, which began on February 16, it is serving only seafood, reflecting the bounty of the winter months when fish fatten and shellfish are at their best. Few variations are allowed to the set menu. But if the fruits of the sea are your thing, this is a banquet packed with surprise and excitement.

From the first dish – a steaming, rich, gently pickle-y broth drunk from a giant sea snail shell, the flavours announce themselves. There’s the acidity of caper and pickle, the onion-garlic notes of ramson (wood garlic), and faint floral notes – elderflower, then later rose and blackberry wood. Moving on, there are sweet, fudgey, woody moments, dried summer fruits, seaweed umami, rich shellfish broths and jellies (one even set to look like a jellyfish), and lovely little combinations like sea urchin studded with pumpkin seeds, a herby salad of sea snails cocooned in a soft beeswax pot, and salty shards of dried sea cucumber served with a little cream. A feisty mussel ragout shows the influence of Mexico, says sous chef Mette Søberg – “We’re using stronger flavours” – and a series of ‘seafood’ desserts includes a mock black mussel filled with ice cream (the ‘shells’ are dried pears), a glorious concoction of tiny confit pine cones (resiny, chewy, sweet), and a slightly fishy ‘plankton cake’ of kelp and yoghurt.

It’s an immersive, enlivening, sensory meal, with wonderful, impassioned service, and in a fabulous space. Themed to reflect the natural world with textured woods, seaweed fronds and lots of natural light, a string of 11 connected buildings houses everything from test kitchens to the staff dining room. Crockery and serviceware range from grainy ceramics to woven twig mats and seashell-covered dishes. There’s an interesting natural wine pairing option or some intriguing juices. Chilled octopus broth? Pure cloudberry?

Taking coffee in the lounge area afterwards, it’s hard not to think of this as one of the most completely memorable meals ever. And I thought that the last time I ate at Noma…

Bookings for Noma2 open seasonally, check the website for details. Spring/summer (bookings opened March 5) are a vegetable theme. With only 40 seats, the waitlist can run into the hundreds, even thousands, so get in quickly when bookings open. With booking fees and credit card charges, you’ll pay around $700 per head with the wine pairing, $450 without. See noma.dk