Spain’s greatest contribution to the world’s favourite foods – and the cause of countless culinary crimes – is the humble croqueta.

There are endless interpretations, not least the Franco-British cousin, the potato croquette. But when it’s done well, the joy of a great croqueta – the crisp crack of a crunchy-crumbed crust combined with a decadently creamy, cheesy centre – is hard to beat.

And so it is at Nomada, where you’ll find perhaps the most swoon-worthy version in town. A delicate, gloriously golden outer shell hides a centre bursting with blue-eye. A powerful fennel emulsion to the side adds just a touch of cheffy trickery.

The wow factor here shouldn’t be a surprise, given that Jesse Gerner (Bomba, Anada, Park Street) and Jesse McTavish (ex-The Kettle Black) have come together to launch this new Fitzroy eatery.

By day, the pair is serving up one of Melbourne’s best breakfasts, made up of a Spanish-tinged fiesta of interesting bites, such as Pedro Ximenez sherry-soaked sultanas with oat porridge and almond milk, sauteed mushrooms on sourdough with jamon serrano, or snapper ceviche with fried eggs, avocado, pequillo peppers and cabbage salad.

In the day, the 50-seat restaurant is filled with natural light. It feels comfortable and lived-in, with a handpressed tile bar, Scandi furniture, hand-stitched leather upholstery and the occasional piece of (fake) fur.

But we are here by night, when Nomada’s candlelit, cava-fuelled charms are out in full force. The music is soft, the service is sharp, and the cooking is clever and comforting across a tight menu of tapas, coal-grilled skewers and a few bigger plates.

The “clacked egg” is a tasty piece of theatre, where an egg shell is filled with ever-changing, flavoursome morsels. Tonight it features lamb belly with Padron peppers and comes to the table nestled on a bed of smoking hay. It is lick-every-drop delicious.

So, too, is the sticky-rich lamb jus that is drizzled over pan-fried quail. A handful of crunchy fried saltbush completes another knockout dish.

The Spanish-dominat wine list complements the food well, with some local options too if you want to keep the drinks Australian.

From the grill, the lamb skewer is the pick, with generous cubes of deeply tasty meat interspersed with push-your-luck Padron peppers, all smoky and charred.

Mushrooms dusted with celery powder and a grating of manchego pale in comparison. While I’m not sure the garfish and mahon toastie is the happiest use of good fish and cheese, the charred carrot salad is all kinds of wonderful. A tumble of colours cooked soft yet firm, the heirloom carrots come tossed through sharp, whipped goat’s curd, slivers of preserved lemon and fresh figs flown down from Far North Queensland adding sweetness, countered with the crunch of hazelnuts and almonds.

Come for the croqueta, stay for the clacked egg, and eat your carrots. Nomada is a great new home.