A rare and delicate flower in Melbourne’s restaurant hothouse, Nora serves Thai food, but not as we know it.

Owner-chefs Sarin Rojanametin and Jean Thamthanakorn follow a “no rule philosophy” at their humbly furnished 20-seater in Carlton. So diners embarking on Nora’s 10-course ‘journey’ are advised to come with a sense of adventure. It helps when there’s no menu, just a set of cryptic notes.

“We want to take Thai food into the 21st century,’’ Sarin explains. Paradoxically, Nora’s radicalism is founded on tradition and a profound respect for the tastes, textures and seasonings underpinning their native cuisine.

Rice, the life force of Thailand, is honoured in multiple ways – as a crisped shard, then in black glutinous bread – while tom yum, that ubiquitous hot and sour classic, lends its name to a fab marron dish.

‘Duck and Hide’ hints at beautiful things to come: crisped Peking duck, mango and a fermented lady finger banana. Other names mislead. ‘Sorry I’m crabby today’ is actually fashioned from custard apple, get it?

Drink pairings complete the circle, from sherries and peaty whiskies to hand-crafted juices and infusions. There’s even a rum and Coke!

Nora is not for everyone – the room is utilitarian, the menu format unbending, the pricetag eye wateringly high – but for those looking for the evolution of Thai food in Australia, tiny Nora is where it’s at.

Must eat dish: Duck and Hide
Instagram: @nora_melbourne