Anyone who grew up around a Greek family would know that you’d be hit with a wave of sensory overload when you stepped in the door. The sounds of people talking over each other and the smells wafting out of the kitchen would engulf you as you’d be torn between joining in on the conversation(s) or helping yourself to a generous slice of custard-filled bougasta.

Usually, a Yiayia (Greek for grandmother), would calmly be presiding over it all from her favourite seat.

For those who don’t have a Yiayia they can borrow, there’s Norma’s Deli.

This new Manly venue opened just before Christmas and is as loud, chaotic and welcoming as you’d expect of any Yiayai’s home.

A central bar dominates the space and it’s divided into different sections, from pre-filled sandwiches and tubs of moussaka to take away, to a mezze counter overflowing with olives and charcuterie, the requisite dessert section with icing-sugar dusted kourambiedes, almond butter biscuits, or kataifi, shredded filo pastries doused in syrup.

There’s a glass-walled kitchen where you can see chefs rolling out diaphanous sheets of filo pastries, fresh baguettes and more.

Sit at the bar for a very European vibe or settle into one of the leather banquettes. Service is slow, but this place is manic and staff are doing their best to keep up. You’re on Greek time here, so relax into it.

Breakfast has a Hellenic vibe. Instead of avocado your sourdough comes topped with taramasalata and soft boiled eggs or feta, tomato and oregano.

The lunch menu kicks in from 11.30am, a concise list of all the faves including spanakopita, braised lamb shoulder and a vegetarian moussaka.

Team warm pita bread with taramasalata and bottarga. Instead of the hot pink concoction you get at supermarkets, this is a subdued salmon hue but the flavour is so much fresher and brighter.

Saganaki with lemon, honey and oregano is what you want your fried cheese to be, warm and oozy but with a nice crust.

Pastitsio is the Greek version of lasagna, a layered baked pasta dish that usually features rigatoni, mince and bechamel. While you can get this version to take home, the restaurant serves up a deconstructed plate – buccatini with spiced ragu and bechamel – which, disappointingly, eats like a Greek take on spag bol.

Pork souvlaki is a hit, the skewered meat channeling the backyard barbecues Pappou (Grandfather) cooked over charcoal. While the flavours of the grilled octopus, atop a bed of creamy feta and red capsicum sauce, are bold the thick tentacles are too tough to cut.

Sitting across from the dessert counter, it’s tempting to overstuff ourselves with slabs of galaktoboureko but we make the sensible choice and opt for a refreshing lemon sorbet topped with honey and thyme.

Obviously, we pick up a few sweets for later. After all, Yiayia would be offended if you didn’t take a goodie bag home.

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