The crashing waves, the salty breeze, the tanned bodies speckling the yellow sand that disappears into the deep marine hues of water, sky and horizon. If it weren’t for the trill of lifeguards and the ice melting in your Aperol spritz, the scene would be too good to believe. Then there’s the open-air, holiday-house vibe of this relaxed seaside diner – all bare wooden tables, waitstaff in denim shorts and floor-to-ceiling concertina windows thrown open to that view.

Kicking things off are Sydney Rock oysters from Merimbula and cooked tiger prawns from Queensland on the market menu. Everything is sourced at Sydney’s fish markets, and larger fish are bought whole and broken down by the kitchen team.

Since Jesse McTavish departed, a new chef is yet to take the reins, but the menu is largely unchanged. Crispy calamari comes in a tangle atop native pepperberry mayo, while Cali-style fish tacos benefit from their mango hot sauce. A snapper pot pie to share perhaps needs a little more seasoning, but a sip of a crisp Canberra Riesling helps it along. It’s a wonderful spot for a long weekend lunch.