Welcome to the Gold Coast’s best-kept secret. It’s similar in philosophy and ambience to great Northern Rivers eateries like Fleet and Pipit, but is buried behind a murky shopfront on the Gold Coast Highway.

Take them up on their $64-a-head tasting menu deal: it’s a steal and they’ll let you pick any five plates from the menu. Friendly staff, cascading plants, a top-notch ’70s playlist and fresh-from-the-oven pretzel bread balls will settle you in for the night.

The potato skins sit in a pool of mushroom puree, topped with egg yolk drizzle and trout pearls, which give a pop of smokiness rather than fishiness. Mud crab is served on an earthy bone marrow crumpet with spicy-and-sweet jalapeño and apple.

Emu egg delivers the creamiest scramble ever, while melting wafers of cured emu meat are sweet, smoky and salty.

While porcine fans will love the jowl, with a commanding porkiness met by orange nectar, sour jicama and starchy yams. While the sticky beef short rib is a perfect companion to the creamy, yeasty shaved sprout salad. All is matched to a quality, fluid wine list that favours smaller, boutique producers doing interesting things.

They like to say at The North Room that “you eat with your eyes”, but you’ll want to get all your senses ready.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Pork jowl, blood orange, oca yams, leek, peanut; beef short rib, eggplant, carrot, salt bush; and shaved sprout, macadamia, yeast.