New to Paddington this year in the heritage-listed shopfront that housed Montrachet for many years, Nota is a breath of fresh air.

The music is pumping, it’s well-priced and it’s the sort of place you could pop into for a drink and a fish sandwich at the bar, a midweek meal of warm lamb salad or the full dining experience.

The night begins with snacks, then share plates grouped into fish, meat and vegetables, and prices are keen.

Start with savoury churros topped with an Ortiz anchovy and drizzled with honey, blinis or toasted brioche with confit pork and jamon.

More substantial choices could be orange roughy in champagne velouté with pipis or sirloin served in a cast-iron pan with roast potatoes, bone marrow sauce and a watercress salad.

Desserts include a juicy fruit crumble served piping hot in its metal cooking pan or a wedge of custard tart with Pedro Ximenez ice cream.

The interior has undergone a makeover and has an appealing white, black and tan palette, with an expanse of exposed brick and a line-up of mirrors to build the Euro vibe.

The original substantial bar gets a workout with a schmick cocktail selection that kicks off with a Nota sour; a 15-strong, mainly Australian, wine offering including off-the-beaten-track minimal intervention choices and all are available by the glass.

Stone & Wood Pacific Ale and Peroni Leggara mid are on tap, with a wider craft selection available.

Exceptional dish: Warm house crumble