Rather than one room being the restaurant and the other the wine bar, it’s a movable feast with some tables enjoying the $95 chef’s menu and others plumping for snacks such as garlic and herb butter scallops, a tempura fish sandwich, beef carpaccio with tuna mayo, crispy capers and fried shallots, or bigger dishes such as Fraser Island spanner crab pasta with chilli and garlic or excellent Black Onyx steak.

The wine list has expanded to about 90 bottles of mainly European and Australian small-producer wines, and the by-the-glass selection is supplemented by Coravin options. With relaxed, informative service and a welcoming ambience, the only downside is that it can be noisy, particularly in the new section with its parquetry floors and hard surfaces. 

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