Staring out across the Pacific from the umbrella-topped deck, the ocean breeze keeping the air cool against the North Queensland sun, there’s a magic to Nu Nu.

At the helm is acclaimed, pioneering chef and owner Nick Holloway, bringing his passion for exotic far north produce to the menu in a wave of innovative and thoughtful ways.

There’s “titbits” such as the bite-sized Melaleuca-smoked reef fish atop a wild pepper leaf with peanut and papaya relish offering a taste of Thailand; “Salads and vegetables” including Sichuan eggplant — the vegetable cooked till soft and silky with a miso-like paste; or perhaps the barbecued tiger prawns from the “other stuff” selection, with the seafood’s sweetness amplified by local, rainforest honey and dried grapes, against the thinnest slice of toasted walnut bread.

Let the friendly, if slightly inexperienced staff talk you into dessert, with the most moist lemon semolina cake joined by condensed milk ice cream, crunchy honeycomb and yoghurt jelly, simply sensational.

A succinct but smart wine list cleverly paired to the food is in play, or choose a signature cocktail to unwind within this holiday paradise.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Lemon semolina cake