The set menu explores produce from the O.MY farm, where all fruit and vegetables are grown for the restaurant and bar, with a focus on reduced waste. Meat and fish come from artisan Victorian producers. The space is simple and open, with seats facing the kitchen to watch chefs dress plates.

The menu changes daily, with anywhere from 12 to 25 dishes, but in the cooler months select favourites return. For the last four years the Jerusalem artichokes with egg yolk have been a well-balanced favourite, as has the zero-waste pumpkin. A pleated chilli pumpkin ravioli returns every autumn with preserved lemon and pops of pineapple sage flowers.

A course in itself, the house-made sourdough is the product of a nine-year-old starter, which staff saved from the fire which destroyed part of the restaurant in 2020. Crusty bread, lathered with butter (also made in-house), is intensely satisfying.

If the experience feels like home, it’s because the staff are related – brothers and founders Blayne and Chayse Bertoncello work as the head chef and head sommelier/maitre d’ respectively.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.