An onslaught of snacks, including barbecued warrigal greens, a delicate tomato tart, chicken cooked in sourdough and candied beetroot in a leaf, are just some of a dozen tastes that begin – and define– a meal at O.MY, Beaconsfield’s no-waste beacon.

The DIY ethos of the brothers Bertoncello – Blayne in the kitchen, Chayse out front with the wines – informs every part of the 25-seat eatery restaurant. They are yet to turn their hand to animal husbandry (but just give them time).

The ever-changing menu, dictated by what’s grown in their expansive garden and reducing food waste, could feature pickled/basted/fried Jerusalem artichokes to start, a burnt pumpkin-skin ice cream full of campfire smokiness to end and, in between, a field of herbs, perhaps sheep sorrel, borage, pea and rocket flowers across steamed hapuka, or wood sorrel adding a crisp green apple bite to pork neck in broth.

Extraordinary sourdough – “We love it, we’re passionate about our bread,” says Blayne – is the best bread in the south-east and probably in the state, too. It is served in many forms: straight out of the oven, all warm and crispy the table; then offcuts are transformed into a no-waste broth cooked with stock for flavour that comes up impossibly clear and cleansing after a three-day process; unused bread is also refermented for four weeks until it becomes sourdough vinegar; and the remainder of the leftovers are artfully transformed into a sourdough pudding served over jammy preserved fruits.

Service is infectiously warm, helping create a joyful experience that builds on that virtuous buzz from the conscious food coming out of the kitchen.

Beaconsfield’s no-waste beacon continues to light the way down a path that leads to the future of cooking.

Must eat dish: All the snacks
Instagram: @omyrestaurant