With its glorious vista across the vines that create multi-award-winning wines, you could come to Oakridge simply for the view and leave happy. With its deep toasty, caramelised crust and the mound of thick, golden butter alongside, you could also come to Oakridge, eat the bread and also leave beaming.

But these are just two reasons to visit this sleek winery dining room, with Matt Stone’s zero-waste kitchen drawing on Yarra Valley produce to provide a menu full of equally compelling propositions.

Such as an onion tarte Tatin, sticky, golden and bittersweet, with soured cream with the unmistakable bush walk of eucalyptus finishing a brilliant opening act. Hot-smoked eel and cool egg custard combine in a delicate, pretty broth showing a less-is-more approach is equally effective; while rainbow trout served with a chewy sauce of its bones is matched in the lick-the-plate stakes by a side of XO shaved Brussels sprouts that will convert any and every sprout naysayer.

Kangaroo served with Davidson plum is such a note-perfect celebration of national pride it should stand for the anthem, while co-head chef Jo Barrett’s desserts – always a highlight – are now better than ever.

Oranges from Four Pillars down the road combine into a textural triumph of citrus – lemon curd, orange parfait, mandarin granita – while poached pears and parsnip are joined by pretzel dough for one of the most inventive, and delicious, veg-driven desserts.

Service is switched on and refreshingly friendly; wines are poured with stories of land. With that view (and bread) it all combines to create one of the best value meals not only in the Valley, but in the state.

Must eat dish: Gin orange
Instagram: @oakridgewines