O’Connell’s is the granddaddy of Melbourne’s gastro-pub scene.

Since the time this South Melbourne stalwart first welcomed a young Greg Malouf into its kitchen around 25 years ago, it’s been a food-first venue of renown where the pub business is at the front – parmas, pots and footy tipping – and the (dinner) party is out the back.

Young chef Aaron Starling (last seen at Carlton Wine Room) is the latest to jump onto O’Connell’s pans, and is going back to his Brit-focused roots, with fare such as malt vinegar chips, black pudding, cheddar and chutney, and treacle pudding for dessert.

It’s the type of hearty food that’s begging for a pint of Guinness, a roaring fire and nowhere to rush off to. And while there’s pleasure in sticking with the tried and true – soft, creamy, cinnamon-rich black pudding topped with a fried egg is excellent, likewise beef and Guinness pie with buttery mash and split peas – it’s also worth following him when he goes off-piste.

Slices of raw albacore tuna are almost creamy, served alongside pickled grapes and a scattering of crisp ice plant. A main dish of pork is like being pulled into a bear hug by a pipe-loving lumberjack, so seriously smoky is the belly and its accompanying crunchy croquette. A charred half of baby gem lettuce dressed in sharp apple vinegar helps cut through the pork.

Skip that treacle pudding, though – it’s crumbly, dry and needs sauce. Instead, polish off that bottle from the list that’s mainly filled with big-hitting Aussie names the old-school moneyed crowd is well familiar with.

While some of the dishes are stronger on Instagram than in real life, it’s nonetheless a solid offering and the comfortable, carpeted dining room remains a family favourite.